Sometimes
I envy normal people with normal careers. When such normal people travel to
Mexico, they get to enjoy margaritas and sunny days at the beach. Or maybe
sunny days strolling through picturesque bazaars or scenic historic ruins. And when they come back, the splash of lime
juice over a salt-rimmed glass or the
happy blare of a mariachi band is all it takes to bring them back.
Lucky
them. My trips to Mexico were never truly fun – unless your idea of fun involves
enduring six-day work weeks filled with frantic note-taking while being
snickered at by locals, stalked by bribe-exacting police officers, and
practically choked to death by antimalarial prophylactics the size of marbles.
So let
it be stated for the record that if you’re looking for a carefree good time
south of the border, researching indigenous languages in rural Mexico is not
the way to go.
There
were some good things about these trips, of course. First and most importantly,
they were the only opportunity of the year for me to get the data I needed for
my research back when I was still in academia. Second, they were (practically)
free – grants covered most of my costs. (Normal people who kvetch about how
hard it is to redeem frequent flyer miles have never had to write a 20-page grant
proposal every time they wanted to save themselves some money when traveling.)
Third, there was the Indiana-Jones-like cachet of traveling to places so remote
they have neither paved roads nor dependable running water. Fourth was the food
– locally grown and made from recipes and techniques dating to a time when
everyone was a locovore by necessity. The food was incredible enough to keep me
going back.
But on
my third work trip to Mexico, I almost didn’t get to eat anything interesting.
This was because my mealtimes were obstructed by a force that never caused any trouble on my previous trips: my travel companions.
Both of
them – a colleague I’ll call Joel and a graduate student I’ll call Deirdre –
were as gringo-y as gringos get – fair-skinned, cold-weather-loving
Midwesterners. Since this would be their
first trip to Mexico and we’d be traveling to a hot region in the middle of
August, I did my best to let them know what to expect.
They
responded enthusiastically to my e-mails and phone reminders to bring
sunscreen, bug spray, and extra batteries for our video equipment, so I
figured they were on top of things and ready to go. It was only when we were at
the airport about to take off did they drop a major bombshell on me.
“Well,
of course I’m concerned about the sanitation issues,” Joel said as we strolled
toward our terminal. “And finding enough speakers to have a statistically sound
sample. And also the language – do you speak Spanish?”
“Sure,”
I said. Well, duh – we were going to be in a tourist-free, predominantly Indian
region where even urban Mexicans were a rare sight – how else would we
communicate?
“Good,
I’m glad to hear that – we’ll need your translation services.”
Holy
cow. “Wait,” I said. “You don’t speak Spanish?”
Joel
shook his head. So did Deirdre.
“Do you
read it?” I asked.
They
shook their heads again.
Great.
My Spanish wasn’t all that great either – I could read it fine and spoke it
competently enough to muddle gracelessly
through whatever I needed to do, but serve as the mouthpiece for two needy, helpless
Midwesterners for three weeks? Not so much.
They
chose to drop Bombshell Number 2 on me a short time later, when we were looking
for dinner in the airport.
“Oh yes,
I think I should tell you,” Joel said, “Deirdre and I are both vegetarians –
will that be a problem down there?”
Only if
you want to eat, dude, I thought. Aloud, I said, “Well…”
Here’s
the deal: in rural Oaxaca, where we were
going to be, the diet of the sustenance farmers in the tiny village where we’d
be working was, indeed, predominantly vegetarian – beans, rice, corn tortillas,
home-grown vegetables – but the food available to visitors in the slightly
bigger market town nearby where we’d be staying and having most of our
meals? Our dinner options could be
described in three words: carne asada tacos.
From my
previous trips, I knew these tacos would be wonderful – as would be everything
else in the market stalls and tiny food stalls here in town . Oaxaca may be one
of the poorest and most primitive states in Mexico, but its native cuisine is
among Mexico’s most baroque and creative – for instance, the region is justifiably proud of its seven distinct, equally complex mole sauces , each a colorful and elaborately wrought amalgam
of roasted and finely ground nuts, spices, fruits, vegetables, and/or
chocolate. Oaxaca’s dishes of pride are what one finds in most restaurants –
and while many are vegetarian, many of the best and most beloved of them
contain meat.
And this
is why my mealtimes in Oaxaca on that trip – the times of day that I looked
forward to the most – were ruined.
We ate
breakfast every morning at a tiny fonda – basically a little stall with no
written menu – near our hotel in the small market town where we were staying.
(Our grant allowed us the luxury of a $10/night
hotel, since I figured out – correctly – that my colleagues couldn’t
possibly last three weeks in the village, where electricity and running water
weren’t guaranteed.) Every morning, the
owner of the fonda, the most patient person who ever walked the earth, would
come to our table and recite the day’s offerings, which I’d translate into English.
And every morning, my colleagues said the same thing.
“Ask if
it has any meat in it!”
“Does it
have any meat in it?” I’d ask as politely as I could in Spanish, wanting to fall through
the floor.
Almost
none of the breakfast dishes, which mostly involved freshly made corn tortillas
enrobed in various vegetable-based sauces, did. But this
didn’t assuage my companions’ paranoia: in their minds, this alien land was just lurking with invisible critters and critter bits.
“Ask if
the sauce has any meat in it!”
“Ask if
the vegetables were cooked in meat broth!”
Even
after being assured that everything was, indeed, meat-free, Deirdre rarely
believed me (or the poor local I had been interrogating). She’d lift her plate
of beans or entomatadas –
tomato-sauce-covered tortillas – to her face, sniffing loudly. “It smells like
it has meat in it!” she’d wail, as if
betrayed.
I wanted
to die.
Still,
there were some great things about that trip -- and my companions, when I wasn’t trying
to feed them. I'll always remember the pleasure of watching their eyes light up at the big Sunday market near
our hotel and showing them the amazing
18th century church in the village – which would easily
qualify for national landmark status had it been located in the U.S. or Europe.
And unlike the crew I worked with back home at the time, they laughed at my
jokes and were (mostly) easy and fun to talk to. In the end, we became friends -- although I still wanted to strangle them at mealtimes.
So in
honor of the Trip From Hell and my vegetarian buds, I’ve devised a vegetarian
version of a little-known Mexican sausage variant, green chorizo. Most people
are familiar with the bright-red, wonderfully greasy and spicy version of
chorizo, but a green version also exists – brightly flavored with cilantro and
parsley along with spices and chile.
My green
chorizo was inspired by recipes by the two Anglophone masters of Mexican
cooking, Rick Bayiess and Diana Kennedy. Bayless’s green chorizo recipe is
minimalist – a few herbs and chiles ground, mixed into ground pork, and quickly
cooked. Kennedy’s version is a bit more complex, involving a puree of spices.
herbs, and chile mixed with meat, stuffed
into sausage casings, and aged for a short time before cooking.
My
version combines (most of) Kennedy’s flavorings with Bayless’s
weeknight-friendly technique, Using an idea from another chef I admire, Deborah
Madison, I made my chorizo vegetarian by using crumbled firm tofu instead of
ground pork.
It’s not
authentically Oaxacan (traditional Oaxacan chorizo is red and shaped into
ping-pong-ball-sized rounds), but my version does have a lively, spicy, flavor
and pretty green color. It’s lighter and less greasy than “real” chorizo, and
appropriate for Lent, St. Patrick’s Day, and dinner with difficult friends you
really want to keep, after all.
VEGETARIAN
GREEN CHORIZO
Inspired
by recipes from Rick Bayless
, Diana Kennedy's book The Art of Mexican Cooking
; and
Deborah Madison's book This Can't Be Tofu!: 75 Recipes to Cook Something You Never Thought You Would--and Love Every Bite![](http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=ocwa-20&l=as2&o=1&a=0767904192)
1
(14-ounce) carton extra-firm tofu
½ cup
chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ cup
chopped cilantro
1
poblano chile, coarsely chopped
2
serrano chiles, coarsely chopped
½ cup
cider vinegar
3 cloves
of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
½
teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay
leaf
1 whole
clove
5 black
peppercorns
2
teaspoons salt
¼
teaspoon each cumin seed and ground coriander
3
tablespoons neutral cooking oil (such as canola) for frying
Corn
tortillas, crumbled cheese, shredded cabbage, salsa and/or guacamole for
serving
1.Using
your hands, crumble the tofu finely and place in a colander set over a bowl.
Allow to drain while you prepare the remaining ingredients.
2. Put ¼
cup of the vinegar in a blender jar and add the garlic, salt, and spices. Blend
until all is finely ground.
3.Add
the rest of the vinegar and the chiles and blend to a smooth puree.
4.Add
the parsley and cilantro and blend to a
smooth puree.
5.Put
the drained, crumbled tofu into a bowl, add the puree, and mix until thoroughly
incorporated. Mixture will be a pretty green.
6.In a
heavy sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the green
chorizo and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thoroughly hot and
most of the liquid has evaporated.
7. Serve
with tortillas and garnishes.
This post is part of the monthly, Twitter-based #LetsLunch series -- every month, participants share their recipes and stories about a dish reflecting that month's theme. This month is green food month! I'll post links to fellow #LetsLunchers in a bit -- now's a great time to enjoy your veggies!
Linda at Spicebox Travels on Kale Chips
Charissa at Zest Bakery on Pandan Tapioca with Coconut Cream
Grace at HapaMama on how to brew the perfect pot of tea
Ellise at Cowgirl Chef on Notos Pesto
Cathy at Showfood Chef on Matcha Green Tea Cupcakes with Matcha Green Tea Butter Frosting
Lucy at A Cook and Her Books on Green Bean Soup with Butter and Chives
Lisa at Monday Morning Cooking Club on Natanya's Soon-To-Be-World-Famous Avocado Dip
Eleanor at Wok Star on Ginger Honey Wok Brussel Sprouts
Karen at GeoFooding on Asparagus with Poached Eggs
This post is part of the monthly, Twitter-based #LetsLunch series -- every month, participants share their recipes and stories about a dish reflecting that month's theme. This month is green food month! I'll post links to fellow #LetsLunchers in a bit -- now's a great time to enjoy your veggies!
Linda at Spicebox Travels on Kale Chips
Charissa at Zest Bakery on Pandan Tapioca with Coconut Cream
Grace at HapaMama on how to brew the perfect pot of tea
Ellise at Cowgirl Chef on Notos Pesto
Cathy at Showfood Chef on Matcha Green Tea Cupcakes with Matcha Green Tea Butter Frosting
Lucy at A Cook and Her Books on Green Bean Soup with Butter and Chives
Lisa at Monday Morning Cooking Club on Natanya's Soon-To-Be-World-Famous Avocado Dip
Eleanor at Wok Star on Ginger Honey Wok Brussel Sprouts
Karen at GeoFooding on Asparagus with Poached Eggs